LOW KICKS
By Carl Cestari
The "flick" kick or outside edge of boot kick (also refered to as the Chinese kick in some syllabus of the era) is imple to "get" but difficult to explain. But I'll give it a go.
Stand STRONG side forward (for now). Face a post, tree phone pole, makiwara-anything along that line, NOT A WALL!
Visualize a spot about knee height or slightly below.
Now, literally FLICK your strong side leg forward with as little telegraphing or "chambering" as possible.
As the foot flicks out, TURN (eventually SNAP) the foot so that the OUTSIDE edge of boot drives into the target. Let the foot rebound and step FORWARD heavily on the leading leg (this helps generate power for both the shin scraping stomp AND the barrage of follow-up blows).
KEEP the UPPER BODY as FORWARD as possible, DON'T snap in with body english in the same way as you would a "side stamp kick" or "mule kick".
This is a fast whipping kick that with a bit of practice is both POWERFUL, non-telegraphed, and FAST!
If you CAN DO this kick SEATED against a target directly in front of you (you can also use this seated against lateral approaches) with speed, accuracy and power, you will pretty well be assured you're on the right track.
The "flick" kick can be aimed from ankle to knee. Charlie Nelson advocated using this type of kick to the NERVE ganglia JUST below the patella. Done with a HARD sharp edge of a REAL BOOT or shoe and it's potential can be devastating.
Using this KICK with intent at a target just a few inches ABOVE the ankle where the tibia is LEAST protected and angled slightly inward is a stone dropper.
Many individuals decry the use of these low kicks as ineffective against an aggressive MOVING adversary. The "flick" kick is the answer and the "wagon wheel" drill can develop speed and maneuver capability. And AGAIN remember NOTHING happens in a vacuum!
From a purely TACTICAL standpoint, the "flick" (remember CHINESE kick-retreat/draw the enemy in and then destroy him) is BEST used as a "defensive" attack or counter-attack. A quick tactical retreat to any number of "lines" attempting to force the assailant to close the distance and/or face off in a "new" direction is the "void" that this kick "fills' very well! NOTHING is a one move fight stopper, but this very effective "opening gambit" and what follows behind (whatever that may be) should be akin to a chain saw. Once you gain the SLIGHTEST advantage, MOVE RIGHT IN for the KILL. This is NOT a sparring match! TIME is OF THE UTMOST IMPORTANCE! This is life or death.
Practice this BAREFOOTED or with any "soft" edged sneaker, cross-trainer or "sports" shoe, and you cut its effectiveness WAY WAY DOWN.
There is a TON of information to be related on just this single kick ALONE.
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